But are they truly free?
For years, Keratin Treatment has been the gold standard in hair straightening, synonymous with achieving smooth, shiny, and healthy-looking hair. Whether marketed as a Brazilian Keratin Treatment, Brazilian Blowout, or under various other fancy names, the base formula remains the same.
Keratin is a natural protein found in the skin, hair, and nails, essential for maintaining their strength and overall condition. Keratin treatments are often marketed as a way to infuse additional keratin into the hair, with claims that they can restore vitality, reduce frizz, enhance shine, and make the hair straighter. The problem is that this is a misconception, since Keratin alone cannot straighten the hair! The straightening effect actually results from the application of a solution containing formaldehyde or similar derivatives. This chemical breaks the hair’s bonds and reseals them in a straighter alignment, creating the appearance of smoother, straighter hair. However, the use of formaldehyde carries potential side effects and significant health risks.
Unfortunately, the FDA has limited regulatory authority over cosmetics and primarily intervenes when companies violate the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. While the FDA has issued warning letters to companies in the past for safety and labeling violations, its ability to prevent the distribution of cosmetics containing harmful chemicals is restricted unless these products are deemed “misleading.” Consequently, the FDA relies mainly on issuing hazard alerts and updates to inform consumers, while also encouraging independent organizations to establish voluntary safety standards for cosmetics.
Potential Side Effects of Formaldehyde Compounds.
The American Cancer Society warns that formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, meaning it may cause cancer or promote its growth. Formaldehyde may also trigger other health side effects. For instance, the Food and Drug Administration warns that formaldehyde and related compounds in keratin treatments may contribute to the following:
- Eye Irritation
- Headaches
- Dizziness
- Sore Throat
- Coughing
- Wheezing
- Nausea
- Chest Pain
- Vomiting
- Rash
These side effects have been reported by both consumers who received keratin treatments and the stylists who provided them, typically occurring during or shortly after the treatment. It remains unclear whether keratin treatments containing formaldehyde have long-term health effects or what those effects might be.
What about formaldehyde-free options?
In recent years, a variety of formaldehyde-free keratin treatments have emerged, but these claims are often misleading, since formaldehyde is part of what makes keratin treatments so effective and it’s hard to find a product that is 100% formaldehyde-free and works. In fact, a 2012 study found that six of the most well-known brands in the industry, despite being labeled as formaldehyde-free, tested positive for the chemical.
In some cases, the manufacturer might be listing formaldehyde by another name, such as:
- Aldehyde
- Bonded Aldehyde
- Formalin
- Formic Aldehyde
- Methanediol
- Methanal
- Methyl Aldehyde
- Methylene Glycol
- Methylene Oxide
- Morbicid Acid
In others, the product might contain preservatives that are hazardous chemichals which give off formaldehyde when heated, like:
- Benzylhemiformal
- Diazolidinyl Urea
- Imidazolidinyl Urea
- Quaternium-15
How serious is formaldehyde risk?
Over the past decade, numerous organizations have conducted independent studies to identify the potential health risks associated with these types of treatments. The results have been extremely concerning, as they not only highlighted various malpractices by companies but also managed to link these treatments to various types of Cancer!
- A 2011 study found higher-than-advertised levels of formaldehyde across 4 different Keratin Treatment brands. The study also found that formaldehyde concentrations in the salon during the blow-drying portion of a Keratin Treatment ranged from 0.08 to 3.47 ppm. During the flat-ironing portion of the treatment, it ranged from 0.08 to 1.05 ppm. The upper limit of both ranges is well beyond what most people can tolerate. The Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry notes that exposure to a formaldehyde level 0.1 to 0.5 parts per million (ppm) can cause nose and eye irritation, neurological effects, and increased risk of asthma and allergies. At levels of 0.6 to 1.9 ppm, people might experience eczema or changes in their lung function.
- A 2014 study on Keratin Treatments marketed as formaldehyde free found that 6 out of 7 products contained 0.96% to 1.4% formaldehyde levels — five times higher than the recommended safe level of 0.2%.
- A 2019 research linked chemical straighteners and breast cancer risk. Females in the study who used straighteners every 5 to 8 weeks or more often had a 31% higher risk of breast cancer.
- A 2021 case study reported that a 13-year-old female experienced severe kidney injury due to formaldehyde in a keratin treatment product marketed as formaldehyde-free.
- A 2021 research suggests a link between chemical straighteners and ovarian cancer. The researchers noted an increased risk of uterine cancer in females who used chemical straighteners more than four times a year.
- A 2022 research links chemical straighteners and uterine cancer. The researchers noted an 80% higher adjusted risk of uterine cancer in females who used a chemical straightening product within the previous 12 months.
It’s worth noting that the studies and research mentioned above primarily focus on the effects these treatments might have on the client receiving them. However, keratin treatments are typically performed in salons where multiple treatments may be administered throughout the day, and the potential health impacts on stylists who are repeatedly exposed to these treatments remain unknown.
The bottom line.
Keratin hair treatments can be an effective way to achieve smoother, shinier hair, but they often require the use of formaldehyde or its derivatives, which can lead to a range of serious side effects. While some manufacturers advertise products as formaldehyde-free, many of these still contain some form of formaldehyde.
The full extent of the health impacts of keratin treatments remains unclear, though the short-term risks are well studied and documented. If you’re considering a keratin treatment, it’s important to research various brands and carefully review their ingredients. Consulting with a stylist who specializes in keratin treatments can also be beneficial, as they can provide guidance on the safest options available. Alternatively, you might choose to avoid keratin treatments altogether and opt for healthier alternatives, such as amino acid treatments or moisturizers like shea butter, argan oil, or coconut oil. These options can help tame frizz and improve your hair’s quality without the associated risks.
